i am sick and tired of seeing EVERYONE using the same method to contour regardless of their face shape. in many cases it makes the makeup look worse that enhancing their face shape. Also another topic which needs to be discussed is the colour used for contour.
So the first part of this blog is going to be showing you how you should contour for you face shape.
there are 2 reasons as to why we contour 1) to change a shape completely (which i personally think its wrong but also do understand in come cases it is needed due to work eg drag) and 2) to enhance what we have already. reason number 2 should be the reason we contour for the everyday instagram following makeup addict.
when we contour a face the idea shape we are trying to imitate is OVAL as that is looked upon as the most desired face shape and the one that looks more feminine and pleasing to the eye. Hay don't shoot the messenger i am just telling you what i have been taught in makeup school.
THE ROUND FACE
This face shape hold youth because it resembles the chubby cheeks you would had as a child.
So to contour a round shape you would mainly contour the sides of the face to make the illusion that the face is slimmer.
starting from the hair line above your temples. going around your brows and eye area and cheek bones. then angel is down towards the hollows of the cheeks BUT not to much and then take it back to the jaw line. do not bring the contour along the jaw line right under the chin, by doing that you are cutting the bottom of the face off making it shorter. stop half way. the same rule applys to the hair line above your forehead,
infact your forehead and chin area is the the area you would add highlight to to again enhance the area making the surface look bigger.
Remember that contour is to remove attention away from the viewer and create a shadow like colour making it look in the distant; and high light brings the area forward.
THE LONG FACE
Always imagine that oval shape your trying to achieve as a guide line. on a long face your start the contour around the hair line around the forehead. usually on a face that is long you tend to have a bigger forehead. so you would bring the shadow contour colour down a little above your brows. leave the temples!! contour ever so slightly under your cheek bones ONLY to enhance your cheeks bones but no need to do a drag contour there. remember that a long face shape will lack on width so by adding to much contour on the side will only make it look even narrow. (also if you have a smaller forehead area then only contour around the hair line no need to bring it down)
moving down to the chin area YES contour! start from one side of the jaw line and go all the way round to the other side. bring it up to the chin. this will create a illusion that the jaw and chin area is shorter; and most of the concentration of the view will be at the centre of the face which will be brighter and lighter. the contour colour takes back the face definition and creates a shadow. if you are going to be doing a lot of contour then remember to blend it down to the neck so it doesn't look like a floating head.
THE SQUARE FACE SHAPE
this face shape is not far off from the round face shape. BUT this time you only contour the corners of the face to smooth out the shape. the face shape has the least amount of contour which makes it the easiest face to contour as you cant go wrong. The highlight remains the same.
THE TRIANGLE FACE
This is a upside down triangle shape. Which this face shape you only contour the top of the face and not the bottom. as triangle face shape already have the desired sharp chin, nothing else needs to added their to enhance it. Your would only need to contour the temple area blending towards the centre of the forehead but around the hair line and not to much close to the brows. keep the intensity of the colour around the temple as that would be the widest part of the face. then to enhance the cheek bones you would pull the colour just under the cheeks bones BUT not to much as the face would be natural shaping to a narrow point anyway.
IF you happen to have a right side up triangle, which means the widest part is around your jaw line and your forehead is narrow. Then do the contour opposite. start from the bottom at the corners of the jaw line and move up to the cheek bones.
THE DIAMOND FACE SHAPE
This face shape will have the centre part of the face at its widest. with the forehead and chin narrow. these face shapes tend to have the amazing cheekbones. so the only place you would contour is the cheek bone area.
By adding highlight to the forehead and chin area your will be bring those forward.
The most desired face shape. BUT the most likely to mess up if done incorrectly. with an oval face shape the shape is there but it does lack in definition to a point. with this face shape you need to be light handed and only add the slightest colour to the cheek bone area to bring those cheeks out and a little around the jaw line bring to a point under the chin. this is also to show and frame the face. as for high light you would apply that centre of the forehead, down the nose, under the eye and a little on the chin.
RULE OF THUMB!!!!!!
apply your contour colour first, REMEMBER a contour colour is not your bronze colour. infact they are 2 different things. a contour colour need to mimic your own shadow so it need to be a cold ashy matte tone. A bronzer is always more warmer colour used to add colour to your face. you can apply a bronze powder on top of a contour which looks amazing.
when applying a high, to be safe apply it to the centre of the face (or as in the pictures) remember highlight will bring those features out more giving it more of a centre stage for people to notice. this can be matte or shimmer.
so i hope the above blog has helped you to understand contour different face shapes.